International Student Accommodation - Go Live It

The City

Avignon, city of the popes and of the famous ‘Pont d’Avignon’, has a lot more to offer than simply a one hundred and fifty year old nursery rhyme and a fondness towards the bigwigs of the ancient Catholic Church. With three hundred days of sunshine a year, this small provincial city of around 90,000 people offers culture, entertainment, history and outstanding beauty all under the bright light of the Mediterranean sun.

Avignon has been an important city since the 12th century, as the Pont Bénezet was an indispensable route for tradesmen crossing the Rhone River. But it was thanks to over a century of papal residency, during the schism between the Easter and Western Catholic church in the 14th century, that Avignon transformed into the gorgeous gothic city which it remains today, providing a perfect backdrop for the multitude of activities that this ‘capital of European culture’ offers.

The city can be divided into two parts: côté intramuros and côté extramuros. Côté extramuros (outside of the ancient walls, all of which have been preserved today) consists mostly of modern residential buildings, HLMs and business parks and, unless you live outside of the walls, there are few reasons to go here. There is nevertheless a large cinema and shopping complex, Cap Sud, which can be reached by bus. As soon as you step within the walls however, there is a drastic change in architecture and atmosphere, and you immediately enter the old town and the true centre of the city. This part of Avignon, made up mostly of small ruelles (narrow lanes or streets, with tiny tiny pavements!), is too small to be divided into named neighbourhoods, but has plenty to offer. One of the nicest things about Avignon is being able to discover yourself the little places that are hidden away in the back streets of the old town, so here we’ll leave some things to be discovered… However, the following places constitute the main areas within the walls:

Rocher des Doms- the historical centre of the city, the Rocher des Doms houses the breathtaking Palais des Papes and the Pont St.Bénezet, which, even if there is only half of it left, is still pretty impressive. These are definitely worth a visit, but if you’re on a student budget go on a Sunday with proof of your address in Avignon and you can get in for free! Between these two monuments, a lovely park in the old grounds of the palace offers impressive views of the entire region and is the perfect place to relax with a book and an ice cream.

The Place du Palais des Papes- is one of the largest open spaces in the old town and also the prettiest. Between March and October its cobbled ground are filled with outdoor cafés and restaurants, producing a quaint and relaxed atmosphere, even if the prices are a little less charming. There are often organised activities or festivals that take place in the square, and it is at the centre of the world-renowned theatre festival, which takes place every July.

Place d’Horloge, Rue de la République- the next square down from the Palais des Papes is Place d’Horloge. The tourist hub of Avignon, Place d’Horloge offers several restaurants, cafés and bars that are tailored to the typical tourists’ wishes. Though very commercial, this square is nevertheless a nice place to watch the world go by, get a cocktail and feel like you are truly on holiday. The Opera House and the Maison Jean Vilar (a museum and library that has everything you need to know about the Festival d’Avignon) are also situated here.

Carry on walking through Place d’Horloge and you reach Rue de la République, the main street in the old town. This has all your standard shops (H&M, Zara, Sephora, Fnac…) and leads down to Avignon Centre station, which lies just outside of the walls.

Rue Joseph Vernet and Place Crillon- turn right before heading down Rue de la République and you’ll enter the chicest part of Avignon, and one of the prettiest. Filled with fashionable boutiques, sophisticated cafés and trendy restaurants, Rue Joseph Vernet and the surrounding area is the perfect place to treat yourself and kid yourself that you’re not a student but a refined French southerner. Place Crillon is especially charming and looks onto the prestigious Hotel d’Europe and the city walls.

Les Rues Marchands- the gorgeous Rues Marchands, to the left of the main street, make up the rest of Avignon’s shopping centre. They consist of beautiful little lanes with marble-like floors and typical provincial buildings housing boutiques, sweet shops, bookshops, cafés, creperies and much more. Les rues Marchands are the epitome of Avignon’s laid back, Mediterranean atmosphere and are always a pleasure to walk through, even if the slippy marble floors pose a slight danger when it’s raining!

Les Halles, Place Pie, and Rue des Teinturiers- just off the rues Marchands is Les Halles, a large indoor market which each city in France normally has. Les Halles is open everyday apart from Monday’s from 8am until 1pm and if you want to taste the specialities of France and the Province region, there’s no better place to buy your grub. The market is situated in Place Pie. Again surrounded by cafés and bars, this square is popular with students and offers a lively atmosphere and popularly priced drinks.

Just behind Les Halles lies Rue des Teinturiers. Walk down this street in November or March and you will find most things shut, but during the summer, and in particular during the festival, this street completely transforms and becomes one of the liveliest and jam-packed streets in Avignon. There are some twenty theatres on this small cobbled street alone, and other buildings are taking up by good-quality restaurants and the odd boutique. The water-wheels give the street a quaint countryside feel, which contrasts well with the worn and crumbling buildings filled with character alongside, which are lined along the majority of streets in this area of Avignon.

Transport

You could say that the transport system in Avignon leaves something to be desired, as there are few bus routes through the city centre (information can be found on http://www.tcra.fr/) and taxi’s are extremely expensive. However, on the other hand this tends not to pose too much of a problem, as thanks to Avignon’s small size most places can be easily reached by foot. Unless you’re living far outside the walls (the closer to the old town you are the better) even then the town centre is at the most a thirty-minute stroll. If this idea does not appeal however, there are several bike paths in Avignon as many Avignonnais choose bikeriding as a healthier and faster mode of transport, and if you’re staying in Avignon for a few months, a bike is definitely a good investment.

Like many smaller places in the south of France, a car is always a huge asset if you want to explore outside of the city. Beautiful countryside, villages and vineyards surround Avignon but without a car these can often be difficult to get to. On the other hand, one of the advantages of Avignon is its central situation within the region. Thanks to the TGV station, which can be reached to easily via shuttle bus, Paris is only two and a half hours away and during the season there is a direct link with the Eurostar, which takes you straight back to London. The large cities of Marseille and Montpellier (both definitely worth at least one visit) as well as the smaller surrounding towns like Nimes and Arles are easily reachable by local train for an affordable price. If you are thinking of travelling the region, then make sure you invest in a Carte 12-25 railcard, priced at 49 Euros for the year, which gives you up to 50% off your tickets.

University

The University of Avignon et Pays de Vaucluse is considered a small yet good university, and Nouvel Observateur recently listed its Master of Culture and Communication as the best in France. It is a beautiful university and has three buildings intramuros: la faculté des sciences; la faculté des arts (once the local hospital); the newly built university library. The various clubs and student associations create a lively atmosphere which invites students to really get involved with french university life. The AgroParc, for those of you studying IT based subjects, lies extramuros, and again most students arrive there by bike.

If you’re in Avignon on an Erasmus or other exchange programme, you should find that most teachers and faculties are pretty flexible in terms of course choices. Lessons consist mostly of lectures, and are taught very traditionally but there is normally little work to be done outside of class. Avignon, like many other French universities, also gives you the option of choosing free-choice modules or even sports modules, which provide three credits towards your school year. If you fancy taking a sports module, make sure you have a copy of your vaccination certificate with you and be prepared for a full medical examination on arrival – even if you just want to dance some salsa, they like to know that you are completely disease free!

Food and Drink

Province cuisine is very Mediterranean, and uses lots of olive oil, peppers, courgettes, olives, tomatoes, fresh fish and meat. Tapenade, Aïoli, and Bouillabaisse (a type of fish stew originating from Marseille) are just some of the most typical dishes. The surrounding area is also world-renowned for its’ wines, particularly Chateauneuf-des-Papes and Côtes-du-Rhône. As mentioned above, Avignon is filled with bars, restaurants and cafés of all price-ranges and the best way to find out where to go is to wander round yourself. However, below are just a handful of suggestions:

L’Épicérie- tucked away in the gorgeous Place St.Pierre this restaurant set on cobbled floor and with a beautiful view of l’Église St.Pierre specialises in things Épicérie and is great quality. A la carte: 14 to 21 Euros.

Le Chat Gourmand- on Rue de Teinturiers offers typical dishes in a quaint restaurant. The food is excellent quality, with all vegetables 100% organic, and as well as the typical dishes such as magret de canard, there is a good range of vegetarian dishes too. A la carte : 20 to 30 Euros.

A.O.C- a tiny wine bar in the Rues Marchands, this place offers great wine, good food and is a popular place for the young professionals of Avignon. Main dishes are around 10 – 16 Euros each (the steak tartare is recommended) and there is an extensive price range of wine.

L’Épice and Love On- situated on Rue des Lices, this cosy and quirky restaurant is decently priced and very friendly, with a pleasing menu. Lunch menu : 11,50 Euros. Dinner menu: 16 Euros.

Cha-Aya- hidden away in the corner of Rue Louis Pasteur, this adorable salon de thé filled is a popular student hangout with a strong Moroccan feel and offers an exhaustive variety of teas, hot chocolates, cocktails and board games! It also serves couscous and other light meals for lunch or dinner. The atmosphere is great here and it is upon until 1am. A definite recommendation.

Aside from traditional French and Provincial cuisine, there are also a vast array of other restaurants. Chinese restaurants offer great value for money, and otherwise there are a couple of great Sushi restaurants as well as Australian, African, South American, Spanish and Italian cuisine.

Out on the Town

If you’re set on going to big (and let’s face it, good quality) clubs and living in a city that never sleeps then unfortunately Avignon is not the place for you. During the week, and especially during the colder months, the streets tend to empty by around half past ten and even on a Friday and Saturday night, Avignon can seem dead if you’re used to big cities, even if the Avignonnais think they’re having the time of their lives. The city does have plenty of bars though, as mentioned above, and these normally close at 1 a.m. An especially nice area, with good drinks and music, is Place des Corps Saints, just near Rue de la République. There are a handful of small and cheesy (aka. Europop!) clubs near the university, notably Redzone and Blues Piano Bar which, after a few, can be quite entertaining. Despite its atrocious décor, Electro Bar on Rue de la Carreterie is a big student hangout with cheap drinks, and tends to act as a second home for the Erasmus students for the first few months, making it a good place to meet people. Avignon also has several gay bars and clubs in and around the city centre. French law states that cities cannot have establishments like clubs etc open after 1am in central or residential areas, so other places tend to be extramuros or a car’s drive away – Bokaos is one of the better clubs and is about a five minute walk extramuros from the university.

Somewhere which is a classic Bobo (Bohemian-Bourgeois) hangout and very popular with the arty Avignon students is Le Delirium, an association which opens from November until March and then for the month of the Festival. A large and nicely decorated all night café, It normally has live music, most often jazz or tzigane, and is a refreshing change from the Europop scene, even if sometimes it can be a little pretentious.

Otherwise, there are plenty of other things that can be done with your evenings. Avignon is one of the European capitals of cinema and there are several mainstream cinemas in the centre as well as a brilliant arthouse cinema right next to Palais des Papes where all films are shown in V.O. (Version Originale). This cinema, Utopia, is definitely worth several visits for the beautiful building, gorgeous view, and chilled out bar, La Manutention, as well as its good range of films.

For such a small city, Avignon has a wealth of culturally diverse entertainment that caters for all needs. It goes without saying that theatre reigns above all, and Avignon has around 40 theatres within its walls, and can open up to 200 venues during the Festival. There are always a wide range of decently priced dance spectacles going on too, and even at the Opera House student tickets can be as little as 5 Euros for the good shows. If you want to get to know French music a little better, then there are quite a few gig spots around Avignon, mainly Les Passagers du Zinc and Akwaba, which put some good people up. AJMI (Association du Jazz et de la Musique Improvisé) also puts on some interesting concerts, and there are plenty of music festivals, from hip-hop to jazz to classical.

Day Tripper

Due to its central location, there is a vast array of day trips to do around Avignon. The roman arenas of Arles and Nimes are pretty impressive, as is the Pont du Gard aqueduct (keep an eye peeled for concerts which take place in these landmarks too – the likes of Daft Punk, Arctic Monkeys and the DJ Jeff Mills played this year). A little closer to home, Ile de la Barthelasse, situated just between Villeneuve-lez-Avignon and Avignon old town, is the largest river island in Europe and is great for picnics and bike rides.

For shopping and for a great night out, Montpellier is just an hour’s train ride away, and is one of the liveliest cities of the South. Chic and fun loving, this city is filled with students and has a real joie-de-vivre feel about it (see guide on Montpellier). Marseille is also just an hour on the TGV.

There is an exhaustive amount of quaint small towns and villages around and about, as well as plenty of chateaux. If you’re lucky enough to have a car, the countryside in this area is one of the most beautiful in France and one of the best ways to appreciate it is to simply head out on the road, and you’ll be sure to pass the cool rivers, vast vineyards and stunning lavender fields that are so typical of Province. You can even stop off at one of the numerous wine companies and taste some of the finest and most famous wines in France.

The boring stuff

These are the boring things which can be stressful to sort out, especially in France, but are important to get out the way.

Housing Benefit; As a student in France you will be eligible for housing benefit. It is a monthly payment offered by the state to help students to afford their rent. In order to receive this benefit you must apply for it at the Caisses d’Allocations Familiales or CAF as it is better known. You can apply for housing benefit either on-line or at the CAF itself.

We do recommend that you try to complete the necessary paperwork on the internet as the waiting time at the CAF is notoriously long. If you have any problems filling out the forms don’t hesitate to ask us for a hand! Depending on when you apply, payments can come through very quickly, and even if you do not get round to this at first payments can be backdated. A useful tip however is … photocopy everything! France bureaucracy has plenty of perks, but they are often hard to get hold of, so make sure they don’t have any excuse to delay things for you!

Gas and Electricity; EDF are the main suppliers of gas and electricity in France. Once we have secured your accommodation we will contact EDF to inform them that you are the new tenant. You will get your bills from these guys which we suggest you pay as soon as they arrive. Failure to pay may mean disconnection at a charge of 30 Euro. If you would rather us pay you electricity bill on your behalf then we will be more than willing to do that, repayment will be into our English account in GBP. If you have any problems with the supply of gas or electricity get in contact with the supplier and notify the landlord. The number for EDF (your region) is 0810 084 084.

Bank Account; When you arrive we recommend that you open a bank account ASAP. Having a French bank account will allow you to pay bills and manage your money more efficiently. There are a number of Banks to choose from all offering slightly different packages. We can however recommend La Banque Postale. This is a subsidiary of the post office ’La Poste’. The advantage of having a bank account with ’La Poste’ is that you will be able to access your money and carry out transactions from practically anywhere in France, unlike other banks who often require that you return to the holding branch to carry out any transfers or transactions.

Alternatively with international banks such as HSBC, if you are an account holder already, you can set up your account before even leaving for France. Make sure to do this well in advance. If you are going to the bank make sure you choose your hours carefully as a number of branches are often closed at the weekend and close for lunchtime.

Transferring Money; thanks to our English banking service you are able to pay your rent and utility bills into an English bank account so you will not be charged a transfer fee or be stung by exchange rates. In order to fully benefit from this fact we suggest that you use traveller’s cheques to transfer money between accounts. Traveller’s cheques are secure and there is no charge for cashing them. It is an ideal way to move money between your English and French account without losing money.

Alternatively, with several banks it is possible to transfer money from you account back home for a small fee of £9, which will take up to 6 working days normally. All the details needed for this will be featured on your ‘RIB’ which is a small slip of paper which contains all of you account details. Your French bank will give you a book of these when you receive you cheque book, card etc. as you are often required to submit one when applying for internet connections, gym memberships, mobile phone contracts etc.

Shops; It is well worth noting that on a Sunday after 1 o’clock you will struggle to find any kind of shop open, whether a supermarket or your local boulangerie, and Mondays tend to be quiet as well. If you have a car, head out to the larger supermarkets extramuros. If not, for quality Les Halles always comes first, and otherwise there are several smaller yet more expensive supermarkets scattered round the old town, where you will find most things that you need. Markets and specialised shops (boucheries, épiceries etc) are often cheaper, fresher and good quality.

Internet; Like in the UK there are many companies offering competitive internet packages. Your internet connection may already be provided in your flat and the price included in your rent. If not companies such as Free, Orange, Neuf Telecom and Darty offer basically the same package of high speed broadband, telephone and a TV box for 30 euros a month. It is worth checking if the telephone deal includes free phonecalls to landlines in Europe and beyond, as several of the internet based telephone lines offer this service, meaning you save a ton on calling home. Recommendations may differ depending on individual experiences although Free generally seem to have a good reputation. If your phone line is not connected you will need to obtain a reference number for your line from France Telecom in order to set up your connection.

Guide written by Inés Soria-Donlan, English exchange student Avignon, 2006/2007.

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